In my local setting where traps are every where and I depend on what I trap. I USUALLY WON'T TELL MY SECRETS. BUT I recognize there are ranchers and farmers out there that may be glad to have them. These secrets are arrived from years of refinement and dedication to trapping hogs. If you find them useful that's great and if it's not working for you, well just e-mail me and I will help you any way I can.
My number #1 SECRET is HOG IN HEAT SCENT - Whether I am hunting or trapping HOG IN HEAT SCENT is a tool of the trade! Call me a salesman if you want to, and yes I sell it. I started selling this product because I used it AND IT WORKED! Over the years I have developed a strong reliability with the product. And now hundreds of trappers all over the country and other Countries are right with me! It's simple - "IT WORKS".
You can find this product at MY ON-LINE CATALOG.


KNOW THE LAW! The laws are presently in a state of flux, and may change within the next 12 months.
( This is being written in April 2008. ) You owe it to yourself to keep up with any changes.
These laws deal mostly with transporting, and the holding of feral hogs after they have been trapped, along with the sale of hogs.

If you're planning on spending a bundle on trapping hogs, think about it OK. TRAPPING IS AN ART.
A SKILL that requires A LOT OF TIME, MONEY, AND DEDICATION. And. if you're planning on selling them, YOU BETTER KNOW THE LAW!

Trapping is the LEAST EFFECTIVE means of FERAL HOG MANAGEMENT, PERIOD, other than doing nothing! I get hundreds of requests for help from trappers each year. They all say the same thing. "I got a trap, the hogs eat the corn right up to the door every night, and I can't catch them!" Ranchers and farmers drop a ton of money into it and in the end shoot the hogs anyway.
Trapping can be fun and an adventure. One that requires a tremendous amount of $$ and effort (FOR THE MOST PART) to become or remain successful at it.

A LOT HAS CHANGED SINCE I FIRST WROTE THIS ARTICLE. These are the BASICS and hogs this day and time have seen it, KNOW IT, AND FULLY UNDERSTAND HOW TO DEFEAT IT! If they don't now and you're reading this, you are about to educate them yourself!

FERAL HOGS, PIGS, PINEY WOODS ROOTERS, RUSSIAN BOAR (all the same) won't just waltz in a trap to die! YOU WILL be dealing with an INTELLIGENT animal that knows all about traps! AGAIN, they see them in every pasture on every property.
You must OUTSMART THEM, OUT-THINK THEM, and be willing to out-WAIT them, as well as spend a lot money on getting them in a trap. If I haven't talked you out of it yet and you still plan on going forward with it OK. Just remember what you read here :-)
  • For the ones just starting out keep things simple. Don't get fancy.
  • Always place your traps in the shade or provide shade. Trapped hogs CAN NOT take heat, such as a full day of direct sunlight on a hot day. Many trapped hogs die of exposure in this situation, especially large boar and pregnant sow. Plus,, it is considered "Cruelty To Animals".
  • Check your traps at least twice a week and in the summer 3 times a week. Hogs will die of thirst in the traps very quickly. THAT IS CRUEL and it should not happen. Needless to say you will not likely catch another for quite some time if that happens.
  • Do not shoot hogs to get them out unless there is no other way. If you do shoot'em then use a cover scent of some kind in the trap such as IN HEAT SCENTS.
  • Whenever possible put a top on your trap.
  • If you have deer in the area use 5' high utility panels and NO TOP. This is to allow any accidentally trapped deer a chance to jump out.
  • Don't (despite what you may have been told) don't put a bottom in the trap. The first thing a hog will recognize as danger is an unnatural floor. Most hogs are going to be timid about walking in the door anyway, so it will only make it worse when their first step senses danger. I have never had a WILD HOG dig under and out of a trap.
    Some trappers say they have but it's rare. They will try to force their way under by raising the trap but not dig under. They will root holes but they generally won't dig out.
  • Don't use fancy home brews for bait, not even soured corn to try and attract hogs. I've tried it all from raspberry jell-o mix, big red to beer. IN HEAT SCENTS is the only product I have ever found that can truly entice stubborn hogs. As far as bait is concerned nothing has been more consistent than corn straight from the bag. The only time I might try some of these home brews is when an educated hog is visiting every night and won't go in. Such educated hogs will require thought and ingenuity to out smart.
  • Keep your traps as invisible as you can for a couple of reasons. Hogs use their vision well, if the slightest change in familiar scenery is detected they will be very hesitant to proceed. Theft is prevalent and to some people irresistible. Traps when found will be stolen or destroyed, or the hogs stolen or shot by poachers.
    IT IS BEYOND IMPORTANT to place your trap in a well concealed location. HOGS KNOW WHAT A TRAP LOOKS LIKE! SO, if you want to successfully trap hogs, IN MOST CASES, you will need to make the trap unrecognizable to them. That is the #1 tip to remember.
    THE HOW TO BUILD A TRAP CD is worth it!

    DON'T ASK ME WHY?????????????????????????
  • Keep strange odors out of the area as much as possible. A hogs sense of smell is exceptional. If a strange odor is detected hogs will likely leave and never come back. Don't urinate (piss), defecate(sh-t), smoke or even spit if you're having trouble with the hogs entering the trap.
  • For QUICK CATCHES, Make the traps in one piece where they can be dropped off quickly and set up quickly. In other words, disturb the area as little as possible. Don't cut trees, grass or anything. This TIP will change if the trap is intended for longer term placement.
  • If you are baiting a trap and the hogs are eating to the door and leaving, (eating corn outside the trap) stop putting corn outside the trap. Make the hogs go inside the trap to get it.
  • If you are baiting a trap with corn and it is mysteriously disappearing, and your not catching hogs. YOU HAVE RACCOONS.
  • If you have a trap that keeps closing every night (it won't be one I made). YOU GOT COONS
  • If you have coons DON'T SHOOT THEM, unless you want'em for supper. Shooting raccoons will run off any hogs that may be around. Yes the noise, as well as the odor will be noticeable to any hogs that may soon visit.
  • Despite what you may think, those thieving raccoons are a bigger help than they are a nuisance, for many reasons. Mainly, hogs follow raccoon trails and rely on them for early warnings. Plus, they cover your left over scent.
  • USING SOURED CORN ATTRACTS MORE COONS THAN HOGS.. You might try a little diesel on the corn.. That'll help keep coons and other critters from eating the corn. Please use it sparingly and do not pollute your environment or threaten water supplies with excessive amounts of diesel fuel. All you want to do is get the smell on the corn which takes very little.
  • NO NO NO, small amounts of diesel will not hurt the hogs,, in fact it helps by keeping ticks and lice of of them. 
  • If you have lots of coons your best bet is to rest the trap. Just stop baiting it for a few weeks and the coons will stop visiting it. Your best bet is to put diesel on your corn. Hogs like diesel, coons don't The hogs will even roll in the diesel corn. NO IT DOESN'T HURT THEM.. NO IT DOESN'T MAKE THEM TASTE BAD, as long as it isn't used in excess.
  • If you got hogs and coons (you're lucky) keep baiting the trap with diesel on the corn and hope for the best. If you don't care about catching them alive and you wish for the hogs to be gone, my suggestion would be to shoot them (the hogs). If they don't come out in the day then shoot them at night. CHECK YOUR LOCAL LAWS. Night hunting for hogs is legal in Texas. IT MAY NOT BE IN OTHER STATES.
  • To help as a cover scent; USE IN HEAT SCENTS "HOG IN HEAT" or get mud from a hog wallow and spread in and around the trap.
    These tips may seem funny, but after you spend money on the trap and then 10 or 15 bags of corn (at the prices they are today), not to mention GAS with the price it is, and you still don't have a hog - you may take them to heart.
ADVANCED TRAPPING TECHNIQUES are sometimes needed to get those trophy hogs OR the semi-educated ones that are reluctant to go in the average trap. To get the BIG ONES you sometimes need to spend a little more time and effort in building, setting and baiting a trap.

    If  BIG ONES are what you're after, the most reliable and consistent way I have found is to bait your trap with another hog. That's right!!!! This is a technique I have used with the greatest success to get trophy hogs.
The idea is to acquire a sow hog, size makes no difference. To BUILD a trap with a sow as bait, just connect a holding pen to the trap. When the sow comes in heat boar will detect this from amazing distances. Nature will take over at this point and bring the animals right to your trap.
They will do almost anything trying to get in with the sow. SO, if your trap is connected to the holding pen the boar will go in any opening he can find. Of course the opening will be a trap door.
WARNING - if the holding pen is not made very well a big boar will make his own opening. Most domestic hogs will cycle about every month.
THIS INCLUDES little pot-belly pigs. Please provide suitable shelter, water, shade, and food for these animals!
If you are going to check the sow every day no special things are needed to take care of her. But please, if you are not going to check the trap for several days provide an auto watering device, and plenty of feed to last her until you return!
Using this technique one boar may be trapped while others remain outside. This can result in battles between rival boar and can cause boar outside the trap to be very aggressive. I have had these big boys "check me out" at very close distances. Some will be very reluctant to leave with the sow stuck in a holding pen. They have protected the sow from ME to their death - so DON'T run these traps UNARMED. You have been warned.
Protective boar can be experts at the ambush, laying in wait to chase away all comers. Watch for territory marking and beds in close proximity. If these signs exist WATCH OUT.
     Territory marking is when a boar scars the ground with his front feet and expels a foul smelling secretion from a gland under the belly. It can be easily smelled. Beds are easy to spot.
Boar will sometimes make a large bed near the sow by biting off grass and twigs and piling them into a bed.
#Make sure your trip wire is weak enough that when a smaller hog gets tangled it can break. I use 10 lb multi strand picture wire (for hanging pictures).