TEXASBOARS.COM

[TexasBoars]

[TexasBoars]

PART TWO

Lets cut the chase
I can't teach y'all each aspect of all this,, YOU DON'T NEED TO KNOW IT

Here's what you need to PURCHASE If you want to build your own light through LED SUPPLY!

***NOTE,, you're still supporting TEXASBOARS!!! Because I supply the housings! You buy from them, then they buy from me.
LED SUPPLY has the BEST PRICES PER PIECE than ANYBODY!! PERIOD!
Thats why I chose LED SUPPLY!
And there is NO MIMNIMUM PURCHASE. FREEDOM to experiment

I have paid the price of RESEARCH and DEVELOPMENT FOR YOU!!

Can you build a light like the ones I build
NO! You would have to purchase parts from a multitude of different places and you would have to purchase MINIMUM AMOUNTS. And then know how to madify those parts, and then have machines to fit the parts. It is completely unrealistic to make a light "just like the lights I make" with the long range capability and so-on.
SO, to simplify all this,, I made Hosuings and Heat Sinks that fit the peices offred by LED SUPPLY. Combining the parts available properly, you CAN INDEED BUILD a freekin powerful light!

Here's how,

GO TO PART THREE for SPECIFIC ASSEMBLY & PART NUMBERS and DIRECTIONS
_________________
KEVIN RYER
OWNER TEXASBOARS and TEXASBOARS FEEDERLIGHTS.
WORK ALL DAY HUNT ALL NIGHT (TM)

[TexasBoars]

PART THREE

PARTS and ASSEMBLY to build


POWEWRFUL 9 WATT RED LIGHT
RANGE from an elevated stand 50 to 75 yards.

PURCHASE THE FOLLLOWING PARTS FOR A HIGH POWER MEDIUM RANGE RED LIGHT!


#1 You need ENGINE HOUSING and HEAT SINK/DRIVER HOUSING

http://ledsupply.com/alk-lh-9w.php ($18.75)
Part #1 will need a housing to screw into,
So SELECT THE FOLLWING OPTION with #1 ALK-20M-3UP ($9.75)

#2 SELECT the COLOR for your 3-UP ENGINE.
http://ledsupply.com/creexpe-3up.php ($12.75)
CREE XP-E (RED) is recommended. You can change that if you wish.
make changes with extreme caution!

#3 SELECT YOUR LENS ($1.50)
RIFLE HUNTERS (lon range) LENS this is the TIGHTEST LENS AVAILABLE for the 3-UP anywhere it is the lense I use on my products.
http://ledsupply.com/10507.php (narrow "UN"frosted lens).
This will throw a usable beam from an elevated stand for 60+ yards no problem.

FOR BOWHUNTERS
http://ledsupply.com/10510.php this will provide a FLAT BEAM.
ABSOLUTELY UNBEATABLE for unbelievable coverage at distances of 15 to 35 yards

#4 SELECT THE DRIVER (micrprocessor) ($15.00)
http://ledsupply.com/03023-d-n-700.php 700 mA Driver.


18.75
9.75
12.75
1.50
15.00
TOTAL = 57.75
+ 5.00 shiping (63.00)

The wiring is CLEALRY MARKED on the driver. TWO wires go to the battery. Two wires go to the CREE 3-UP LED.
The CREE LED is CLEARLY MARKED (+P) and (-N) for the wire connections.
DO NOT WIRE ANYTHING UNTILL
YOU READ ALL THE WARNINGS IN THE FINAL PART OF THIS SERIES!

---------------------------------------------------------
OR you can start directly from here and LED SUPPLY do the soldering for a
PRE-BUILT KIT
http://ledsupply.com/alk-lh-9w-kit.php (BASE $54.00)
*Mounting, Soldering & BuckPuck Driver Included in BASE PRICE!
OPTION #1 CREE XP-E 3 UP $20.00
OPTION #2 RED
OPTION #3 SPOT $3.00

TOTAL $77.00
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_________________
KEVIN RYER
OWNER TEXASBOARS and TEXASBOARS FEEDERLIGHTS.
WORK ALL DAY HUNT ALL NIGHT (TM)

[TexasBoars]

PART FOUR

18 WATT RPG POWERHOUSE

My estimation is this light will easily reach 100 yards FROM AN ELEVATED BLIND!!!!!!!!!! AND COVER A VERY LARGE AREA!

REPEAT PART 3 replace the RED with a GREEN
and COMBINE or AIM THE TWO LIGHTS at the same spot.
RED plus GREEN combined will provide a powerfull ORANGE/AMBER illumination.
These housings come standard with MALE 1/2 NPT (standard electrical thread) so you can EASILY mount them using 1/2 INCH PVC material.
_________________
KEVIN RYER
OWNER TEXASBOARS and TEXASBOARS FEEDERLIGHTS.
WORK ALL DAY HUNT ALL NIGHT (TM)

[TexasBoars]

PART 5
WIRING and WARNINGS

#1 CREE 3-UP is wired directlyto the PUCK DRIVER which is CLEARLY MARKED on the driver!
*WARNING never connect the LED directly to the battery,, it will FRIIIIIIIIIIIEE in faster than a rattle snake can even THINK asbout striking.

#2 BATTERY is wired directly to the PUCK DRIVER which is CLEARLY MARKED on the driver.
** WARNING --- NEVER EVER NEVER make a REVERSE POLARITY CONNECTION to the DRIVER for more than 2 seconds! The driver is gaurded for TWO SECONDS.
To fully gaurd your light from damage of REVERSE POLARITY (hooking it up backwards) go to ""RADIO SHACK" and purchase a
part # 1N4001 DIODE or any BLOCKING DIODE.
Solder the DIODE in the NEGATIVE WIRE with the GREY STRIPE toward the battery. you will then FULLY PROTECT THE DRIVER from ANY DAMAGE from reverse polarity.

Those are the only two connections
#1 LED to driver
#2 Driver to battery.

Those two warnings are the oly way you can damage your parts.

If you wire the part together and the CREE LEDs do not IMMEDIATELY SHINE BRIGHT you have wired it incorrectly. CHECK THE WIRES and make sure +P is connected to +P from driver to battery and again from driver to CREE LED.

Thats all there is to it!

Place a small amount of SILICON around the LENS CAP before placing the lens into the lens cap.

OOOPPPPSSS HERE IS SO DO NOT DO THINGS

DO NOT USE ANY TYPE OF SUPER GLUE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do not use any type of ADHESIVE between the LED and the PEDASTOL the LED sits on. You can purchase a SPECIAL HEAT CONDUCTIVE EPOXY to permanerntly seal the pieces together! this epoxy will not harm ANY PIECES and will insure proper heat conductivity.


ASSEMBLY

#1 SOLDER 26 Gauage wire (about 6 inches) to CREE LED -- +P and -N is clearly marked on the LED.

#2 CONNECT THE BATTERY to the PUCK DRIVER - DRIVER is clearly marked +P and -N to BATTERY.
PLACE THE DIODE 'IN LINE" of the NEGATIVE WIRE. Simply cut the wire and solder the diode in place. The GREY RING should be facing the BATTERY. The diode will BLOCK a reverse flow -- only allowing ONE DIRECTION OF CURRENT FLOW! If you put it in backwards the light will not work!
TEST THE LED by connecting the DRIVERS TWO LED WIRES to the LED. It should INSTANTLY shine bright upon connection! REVERSE CONNECTION will not work - it will NOT damge the LED, it just will not shine.
Ifthe TEST FAILS check the connections and make sure ALL (+P) are connected to POSATIVE marks! If they are,, and the light does not come on --- the diode isin backwards. REVERSE IT and test it.
YOU MUST MAKE SURE the POSATIVE leg of the battery remains connected to the (+P) marked BATTERY on the driver. DO NOT REVERSE IT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES UNTILL YOU HAVE CONFIRMED correct placement of the DIODE. (in the negative wire the grey ring faces the battery)
It is very SIMPLE to do it right,, POSATIVE TO POSATIVE

If the test is succesful proceed.

#3 Using RTV SILICON attach the LENS to the CREE LED. The pegs of the lens will fit in the holes on the led PERFECTLY allowing it to cover each of the 3 LEDs PERFECTLY!!!!!!
Allow it to dry in place PERFECTLY SET IN PLACE with the wires soldered on the CREE!!

#3 Set the LED and LENS combo into the LENS CAP -- use a small amount of CLEAR RTV SILICON around the lip of the cap to make it watertight.
DO GET ANY DEBRIS or ADHESIVE on the back of the star board. The aluminum of the board and the ENGINE PEDASTOL must make a clean contact for proper heat transfer.

#4 INSERT THE PEDASTOL apply ADHESIVE to the inside of the lens cap -- and the outside of the pedastol --- do not get get any of it on the base of the LED UNLESS IT IS the SPECIAL HEAT CONDUCTIVE EPOXY available from LED SUPPLY
http://ledsupply.com/aata-5g.php HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!

The plate of the star must make good contact the the base of the pedastol so heat can be absorbed and carried to the housing.

OR you can use JB WELD as alternative adhesive #2 or RTV SILICON as alternative#3 -- again you can not get these adhesives (#2 or #3) on the back of the LED STAR BOARD or the face of the pedastol that mates to the star board!

TEST THE LED AGAIN!!!!!! Connect it to the driver.
MAKE SURE YOU TEST IT BEFORE IT DRIES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
At this point there is no reason for failure of the LEDs to shine.

If the test is good PROCEED

#5 SCrew the CREE XR-E ASSEMBLED ENGINE into the DRIVER HOUSING

#6 Permanently connect the wires from the CREE XP-E to the DRIVER.
TEST THE CREE AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If it works proceed.

#7 connect an adaquate length of wires (7 to 8 feet of 18 gauge or up to 100 feet of 16 guage wire) to the driver that will connect to the battery (your final wire for whatever purpose you will use the light).

TEST THE CONNECTIONS
If the light works SEAL IT UP!!

#8 SEAL IT UP by putting your battery wires through the hole of the HOUSING BACK PLATE and screw it ON. SEAL THE HOLE IF DESIRED.

Your light is FINISHED.

When the battery wires are connected to the battery the light will turn "ON" when disconnected it will go "OFF".
_________________
KEVIN RYER
OWNER TEXASBOARS and TEXASBOARS FEEDERLIGHTS.
WORK ALL DAY HUNT ALL NIGHT (TM)

[Burt]

[VTDW]

Kevin,

What is the cost for the housing we can purchase from you. Also, will their be scope/tripod mounts attached?

Tnx,

Dave
_________________
2011 - 13
2012 - 13

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v354/vtdw1/
www.marlinowners.com

[TexasBoars]

[CharlesL]

Kevin, thanks for more information than I ever wanted about LED lights.

You have some really neat new stuff. Unfortunately for me, or good for me, the 3W light I bought from you in 2007 is still going strong. Actually the 3W I bought in 2006 and was stolen is probably still working too.

When I can justify a new light I will probably just buy a completed unit.
_________________
http://public.fotki.com/ElmerF/